Every year since 1973, Annecy has played host to a major traditional folk festival known as the Retour des Alpages, or sometimes the Descente des Alpages. From craft shows to demonstrations of the trades of yesteryear and herd parades, come and delve with us into the heart of this festival to learn more about this local practice and – why not – inspire you to take part in the 2024 edition!
A simple history of the Retour des Alpages
First of all, we need to understand this tradition by explaining what it’s about. This is a tradition which dates back much further than the festival itself: the retour des Alpages (return to the mountain pastures), unlike the so-called “emmontagnée” (ascent to the mountain pastures), marks the return of the herds (or flocks) which spend the summer season in the Alps to their stables, signalling the arrival of winter and the cold after a summer spent grazing on the fresh grass of the high mountains.
Since 1973, the Retour des Alpages has become a traditional event which takes place on the second Sunday in October, when the herds parade through the streets of Annecy, and the town is decked out in bright colours while the typical sounds of mountain life are played. A true Savoyard celebration, this tradition brings together volunteers, partners and participants to bring the streets to life, celebrate the arrival of autumn and share the same passion every year.
Activities and festivities during the Descente des Alpages
As for the 2024 edition, it will take place on Saturday 12th October from 9am to 6pm. Throughout the event, participants will be treated to groups of folk singers and dancers accompanied by traditional instruments; tastings of local produce at the many food stalls set up for the occasion, as well as at local restaurants which will offer special menus linked to the Retour des Alpages; and workshops on old trades to learn more about the customs and traditions of the region.
The full programme will be available soon, so stay tuned for more information on this traditional event!
Itinerary and key locations for the Retour des Alpages
As mentioned above, the Retour des Alpages is packed with folk events, but the most important one is the herd parade, which takes place at 2.30pm and covers a distance of 2.5 kilometres, all to the sound of music and the bells the cows wear around their necks.
Hundreds of animals will be walking around town along a signposted route, accompanied by their breeders! You’ll be able to see different breeds of cows (Tarentaise, Abondance, Montbéliarde, etc.), as well as goats, sheep, donkeys, ponies, geese and dogs (including Bernese Mountain dogs and Saint Bernards). In short, there’s something for everyone!
If you’re planning to wander through the streets of Annecy during the day, particularly in the old town, there’s no shortage of events to choose from! You’ll be able to enjoy a variety of bands playing on traditional podiums, with the accordion, a typical Savoyard instrument, taking centre stage.
There will also be presentations of traditional trades, such as that of the harnessmaker, which involved making and repairing harnesses and collars for draught animals, and the knife grinder, who travelled through the villages with his grindstone to sharpen household knives and scissors.
What You Need to Know Before Taking Part in the Event
First and foremost, you should be aware that the Retour des Alpages in Annecy is a free event, unless you decide to stop off at a restaurant or buy a souvenir of the occasion.
As far as parking is concerned, it will be a miracle if you can find a space close to the parade routes and the various squares where the entertainment is taking place… That’s why we strongly recommend that you park in a car park, such as the multistorey car park at the Parc des Sports or the one at the Petit Port d’Albigny, or find a space away from the old town and take public transport to head further in. We also strongly recommend that you get there well before 9am, to avoid the crowds and allow you to get settled in more comfortably.
And finally, don’t forget that pets are allowed, so you can share this moment with your four-legged friend too!
The Descente des Alpages and the local community
Above all, the Descente des Alpages is an opportunity for the people of Haute Savoie to focus on sharing, while showcasing their traditional values which have been brought into line with modern tastes. It also enables and contributes to the development of an Alpine identity, while renewing the territorial link between the town and the surrounding mountains by promoting a short route (from the craftsperson to the consumer without any intermediaries) and showcasing local gastronomy using local products. Bringing this event to the attention of as many people as possible is a real boon for the Annecy community, and also puts the spotlight on the region’s shepherds and farmers, whose profession is all too often overlooked and forgotten. To put it plainly, the Retour des Alpages is a veritable ode to the know-how of the past and present.
Come and experience the Retour des Alpages in Annecy!
Would you like to take part in an extraordinary folk and historical event, while learning about the history of the town of Annecy? Then the Retour des Alpages is the traditional festival for you! With so many people expected on site, it can be difficult to find suitable accommodation which will allow you to rest up after such a hectic day… But we’ve got the solution! Head to our website, compare the accommodation options to find the one which best suits you for the occasion, and we’ll take care of the rest!
